Valparaiso

Just when we we were beginning to miss San Francisco (kind of), Lila and I arrived in one of Chile’s most interesting cities, Valparaiso, an hour and a half south of Santiago. Built among 45 hills, Valparaiso is a spectacular maze of neighborhoods full of cafes, restaurants, and notable churches. Spending our days strolling up and down through the barrios, we enjoyed the amazing murals and often spectacular graffiti that seems to cover every square inch of the city. ...

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A Week in the Big City

With the Andes to the east and the Pacific to the west, the flight from Iquique to Santiago makes for some more breath-taking scenery. After two weeks in the dusty beach towns it was a refreshing change of pace to be in a modern vibrant city. Santiago is fantastic. Sitting in a valley surrounded by towering snowcapped peaks, the city is a nice balance of colonial and modern architecture. The city planners have done an excellent job of providing ...

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Back to the Beach – Northern Chile

After three weeks of frigid Andean heights we were so happy to cross the border into Northern Chile and get back to the beach. After a 6 hour bus ride followed by a short train ride from Tacna Peru, we entered Chile in the small tranquilo beach-side city of Arica. Like much of northwest Chili and Southern Peru, the town sits bellow giant barren sandstone cliffs. Like northern Mexico without the trees. Aside from surfing, Chili has ...

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Viva la Mullet!

One of the first things that you notice when you cross the border between Peru and Chile is not the changing climate or landscape, but the vast number of men, women, and children sporting the infamous mullet. I seriously haven’t seen this many mullets since I moved out of Sonoma County in the mid-eighties. At first I thought that this was a new Chilean phenomenon, but after Googling “Chilean Mullet” I found that I wasn’t alone. Fortunately Lila and ...

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