Rajasthan Women

Lila and I left India nearly three months ago and have since traveled through Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and part of Malaysia. We are seriously behind on our blog updates. I guess we have been having too much fun. So here is our last bit on India and then we’ll do our best to catch you all up on our time spent in South East Asia.

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From Goa we caught a flight that took us further north into the Indian state of Rajasthan, the India that I had imagined in my mind when I first started dreaming about the trip. Old forts, lake palaces, elephants, spicy curries, and amazingly colorful people in beautiful costumes make Rajasthan one of the most unique places that we visited all year.

Master of Puppets

Our first stop was the lakeside city of Udaipur. The city is situated around a shallow lake that acts as a buffer to the grand palaces that sit in the middle only accessible by boat. The “Lake Palace”, once a retreat for the local maharajah’s family, and also the setting for the James Bond film Golden Eye, is now one of India’s most exclusive hotels. We stayed in the neighborhood adjacent to the lake at the Krishna Palace Guesthouse, a traditional haveli (Indian mansion), the interior decoratively hand-painted by the owner, a well known Indian artist once commissioned by the local raj. Lila took cooking lessons and added a few northern India dishes to her growing recipe box. We spent our days exploring the local forts, palaces, and museums and winding our way through the narrow neighborhoods full of shops and restaurants. Every once in a while someone would ride an elephant through town as bicyclist and tuk tuk drivers swerved to miss the pedestrian traffic. We spent our leisure time hanging out atop the many rooftop terraces overlooking the lake.

Lila making friends as usual

From Udaipur we took another eventful bus ride to the city of Jodhpur. On the way we were mesmerized by the change in scenery and people. The green of Goa behind us, the desert spread out before us. Boulders and cacti lined the roads and the normal assortment of distractions – cows, goats, dogs – played chicken with the bus around each bend. Lila, holding a little Hindi girl in her lap for a good part of the trip, noticed the change in the local clothing. The women adorned in bright colors and bangles up to their shoulders. The men wore mutton chops, big mustaches and even bigger and brighter turbines, each color significant in communicating, age, caste, and material status, amongst other things.

Hindi Festival, Udaipur

Jodhpur seems more of a working city than a tourist destination, but it turned out to be a favorite for a number of reasons. First and foremost was the beautifully up kept Mehrangarh Fort. The day we visited there happened to be a annual international music festival. Throughout the day we were treated to the sights and sounds of a number of traditional dance troupes and musicians who traveled from all over India for this event. We returned in the evening for a sunset concert outside the fort walls and then another performance inside the fort itself. We stayed at the Heavens Guesthouse, a pleasant family home-stay. Nisha, the owner, took a liking to us and invited us to join her at a local folk festival where we spent the afternoon admiring the amazing array of characters vying for first prize in a number of events, including turbine tying, a traditional raj costume contest, and tug-o-war.

Jodhpur Folk Festival

From Jodhpur we took a night train to the fort city of Jaisalmer. Arriving tired (around 5am) we were lucky when we checked into the Fifu Guesthouse, by far one of our favorites in India, and they had a room ready for us to return to bed. When we awoke we met Fifu and his brother, the most gracious hosts. During the day we visited the famous Jaisalmer Fort, the town inside still intact and full of shops, restaurants and narrow winding neighborhoods. We also visited the three Jain temples located inside the fort walls. The intricate carvings so unique and beautiful and different than the Hindu temples that we had visited in the south. (Jainism,based on a philosophy of non-violence, was spun off of Hinduism centuries ago in a revolt against the harsh Indian caste system. The most devout of the Jains do not believe in harming a single living creature. They wear white masks covering their mouths to avoid inhaling insects and are often seen sweeping the path in front of them to avoid crushing ants and other bugs beneath their feet as they walk.) In the afternoons we took refuge on Fifu’s rooftop terrace – a perfect escape from the dusty roads below, with a picture perfect view of the fort, good food, and endless lime sodas to cool us down from the scorching heat.

We spent our final evening with a Jeep tour into the surrounding desert with a friendly couple from London. An hour off-road, past heards of camels and small villages, we made our way into the dunes where our guides prepared us dinner as the sun set behind the hills.

A view from the Jaiselmer Fort

Another night train journey, kept company by my own little cockroach family this time, and we arrived in Jaipur, Rajasthan’s capital city. Hot, crowded, and crazy and we were quickly shocked back into Indian reality. Fortunately the food scene in India is never a let down, so we perused the city streets looking for the perfect chapati, samosas, and curries. The following day we visited the Amber Fort, just out of town, saw a Bollywood film at the Raj Mandir cinema, one of India’s largest and well known theaters, and Lila replenished her wardrobe with a few choice pieces from Anokhi, a traditional block print fabric boutique.

Yet another train ride, arriving after midnight this time, and we were in the city of Agra, home of the Taj Mahal, and apparently the breeding ground for the swarthyist of touts, but I won’t get into that as you can read endlessly about this on other peoples India blogs. The Taj was magnificent. That is the only word that can describe it. It was every bit as beautiful as we expected. Built by the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan in the 16th century as a memorial to his favorite wife – Mumtaz Mahal, every detail is a testament to a love lost.

The Taj Mahal

A final Indian train experience, this time on the day train, upon hard wooden benches, in a car full of men – and Lila. Needless to say, there was some serious staring, one thing that you never really get used to in India. Six hours later, however, and we arrived in New Delhi. I might have more to say about Delhi, but at this point Lila and I were feeling more than a little road weary, so we stayed in a suburb on the outskirts of town in a modern little hotel, with a hot shower, clean linens, and a flat screen TV. Awe the little things. The following day we made our way to the giant western style mall. I mean HUGE mall (apparently not everyone in India is poor), where we strolled around unharrased in the air-conditioned stores looking at an array of useless crap and generally just hiding from the overwhelming swarm of humanity outside – not that the mall wasn’t packed as well. Lila went to the spa for a facial, had a fish pedicure – thousands of tiny fish eat the dead skin off of your feet (very strange, but popular in Asia). You should have seen her face. The following evening we boarded a flight for Thailand.

Fish Pedicure

There is no real was to wrap up my feelings about India at this time. It is one of those countries that I haven’t fully absorbed. As beautiful as India is, at the end of your trip I think that there is a need to wash away the weeks of dirt and grime and some of the things that you have seen and to give it a rest for a bit. For every beautiful palace and temple, there is a heartbreaking reminder of the poverty in this country of nearly a billion people. The children growing up on the streets without parents, the dead dogs along the roadways, the morning bathroom huddle along the train tracks because the slums have no plumbing, the endless beggars with missing limbs and gaping self inflicted wounds, their only source of income in a country that believes that your lot in life has more to do with your karma than with a culture haunted by centuries of caste discrimination and imperialism.

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Lila keeps her distance from the Temple Elephant

After a few weeks in Kerala Lila and I decided to head east to the French inspired city of Pondicherry (Pondy to the locals), located along the Bay of Bengal on the far side of the state of Tamil Nadu. We boarded our first of many buses that would eventually get us there, stopping off first in the temple town of Madurai.

India's Buses - They look so harmless when they are at rest

First of all, taking the bus in India is always a death defying experience. Apparently the buses only operate at full speed, even when going through busy residential areas, shopping districts, and school zones. With hands gripping the “oh shit” handles mounted on the seat backs in front of us, we cringed each time we narrowly missed a crossing cow, dog, old lady, or small child. The bus drivers honking manically the entire length of any trip. Usually being the only two gringos on board, we received a lot of attention from the rest of the passengers. Women placed babies in Lila’s lap, kids shared our road food, and we all smiled a lot and did our best to communicate despite the language barrier and shaky ride.

Meenakshi-Sundareswarar Temple Complex, Madurai

Arriving in Madurai in one piece, we set off to see the Meenakshi-Sundareswarar Temple, one of India’s most historic and beautiful Hindu temples. The temple complex, dedicated to Lord Shiva, sits in the middle of the city, its colorful towers carved with thousands of Hindu deities mark each of the four entrances. We spent the afternoon exploring the complex, strolling through the inner chambers with hordes of Hindu devotees, school children, and a small number of other tourists. The following day we went across town to visit the Gandhi Museum where the main display told the story of Mahatma Gandhi’s life and India’s struggle for independence from the British. In a glass case in the corner the blood stained dhoti that Gandhi wore when he was assassinated sits on display.

Entrance to the Mahatma Gandhi Museum in Madurai. One of many in India.

From Madurai we boarded another bus and headed further east to the small city of Thanjavur for a peek at the Brihadishwara Temple, an amazing first century granite temple and UNESCO World Heritage Site. For a handful of rupees we hired a local guide to show us around. Just through the main gate and we were greeted by the temple elephant, lavishly decorated and adorned with paint and jewels. I held a coin in my hand, which the elephant took with his trunk, bowed my head to receive my blessing as he gently lay his trunk upon the top of my head. Lila, being weary of the beast, bolted quickly when her turn came up. The temple was not as brightly painted but equally ornate and somehow even more interesting as I imagined it looking exactly the same for thousands of years.

In front of the Brihadishwara Temple, Thanjavur

At last we arrived in Pondicherry, once an important trading port city controlled by the French, the wide streets and architecture a throwback to a colonial time long past but not forgotten. We checked into the Swades Guesthouse, located in the Muslim Quarter, and wandered out to explore the city. Just blocks away we strolled among the small shops and cafes in the French Quarter, a narrow strip of tree lined streets that ended at the water. On the opposite side of town, just further north, we were back in the Hindu Quarter, full of busy streets, endless shops, street stalls, and Tuk Tuks. The following day we visited the Shri Aurobindo Ashram. Shri Aurobindo, a contemporary of Mahatma Gandhi’s, was a revolutionary, poet, and mystic still much revered in Indian society today. We spent the rest of the week having coffees and morning chats with two sisters from Idaho now living in Pondy and running a cool little coffee house, taking yoga classes at Yoga Milan, strolling the waterline, and trying to stay out of the scorching heat of the day.

A Wide Pondy Street

After a week of rest, we took yet another bus just a few hours north to the beach side town of Mamallapuram, famous for its monolithic rock carvings and picture perfect shore temple. A once rural fishing community now built up into a small tourist hub, Mamallapuram is full of restaurants, bars, and beach side guesthouses. The beach lightly populated with local fishermen pulling their catch ashore while their peers cleaned and repaired nets among the colorful fishing boats. At the far end of the beach sat the shore temple, calling believers to shore for centuries. Just south west of the temple, at the base of a towering lighthouse, we explored a park full carvings and rock-cut shrines where the devoted have come to pray for generations. Families and tourists filled the park and we all were enthralled by the amazing relief’s of elephants, monkeys, nymphs, and gods carved into the huge granite boulders that bordered the park. Pancha Pandava Rathas, another site located due south, contained more incredible carvings, including two of my favorites, a lion and a life-size elephant. Today stone cutters still ply their craft in town where statue shops seemed to outnumber the restaurants and hotels.

The Shore Temple, Mamallapuram

From Mamallapurram we headed up to Chennai where we bordered a plane to Goa, the state located back on the west coast and just above Kerala. Well known to Western party goers for the pristine beaches and chilled out vibe. In the early seventies my parents generation made it to Goa first, looking for spiritual enlightenment, cheap thrills, and even cheaper living. Apparently not much has changed.

Catholic Church, Remanants of the Portuguese in Panji

Our first stop in Goa was the old Portuguese port town of Panjim (or Panji). Set back from the coast and situated along side the Mandovi river, the small city itself is a interesting detour from the rest of Goa. The Portuguese inspired architecture and cuisine, abundance of Catholic churches, and narrow winding lanes made us feel like we had suddenly been transported to a European city of ages past. We decided to spoil ourselves for a few days and checked into The Panjim Inn, a villa style hotel with all of the amenities. Being the slow season, tourists were sparse and town was slow. We spent our time meandering among the quaint streets and hilly lanes above town, checking out the temples and churches, and sampling the local eats.

Lila and the Goa Beach Boys

We spent the remaining time in Goa at the beach, where we rented a scooter for a few days and made the rounds. First stop Anjuna, a wide stretch of beach with all the basic tourist needs – restaurants, cheap guesthouses, and bars. The water was a bit rough while we were there, so we didn’t get the pristine part, but the country side was beautiful and we made full use of our moto exploring all of the small towns along the coastline. Next we moved on to Baga. With a better beach front full of restaurants (and drunken Hindus), we mingled with the Indian tourists and actually had a chance for a swim, some good meals, and more time zipping about on two wheels.

Unspoiled Goan Shoreline

Next we headed further north and into an entirely different world – Rajasthan. More to follow…

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Cruising the Kerala Backwaters

Departing Istanbul well rested and ready to get back to the adventure, we caught a red-eye to India. Our six week tour started off in the city of Thiruvananthapuram, also known as Trivandrum, located in Kerala, India’s most Southern state. Kerala is also, perhaps, the most successful Communist state in the world, boosting a high literacy rate, good medical care, and a general sense of good, although monetarily poor, living. Arriving during the ten day Onam Festival, a Hindu festival celebrating the legendary King Mahabali., the city was alive with music and the endless boom of fireworks that seemed to follow us throughout India. The streets were lined with colorful lights and streamers. Indian tourist came from miles away to join in the festivities, doubling the population of the city during our stay. Our first impression…we loved it. It was chaotic and exciting, like nowhere else we’d been.

Onam Floats at Rest

Being so far south we thought it would be a shame not visit the southern most tip of the country. From Trivandrum we joined a short tour that took us to the coast. Along the way we visited an impressive palace built almost entirely of teak and painstakingly decorated with elaborate carvings of lotus flowers, dragon heads, and goddesses in the typical Keralan style. After the palace we had our first whirlwind tour of a Hindu temple. Once inside we were sold flower garlands to place on the alter as an offering, then had our foreheads smeared with ash, rushed around the alter three times while holding a tray of oil lamps as another offering to the “gods of the sky”, and then given rose water to douse the feet of Hanuman, the Hindu monkey god said to be the 11th incarnation of Lord Shiva. With our heads still spinning we hopped back in the van and continued to our southern destination, the seaside town of Kanniyakumari, where the Indian Ocean collides with the Bay of Bengal to the east and the Arabian Sea to the west. Kanniyakumari is also host to a handful of shore temples, a Gandhi memorial, loads of tacky souvenir stands, fortunes tellers, a wax museum, and an impressive statue of Swami Vivekananda on a small rock island just off shore.

Swami Vivekananda on His Island

Next we headed for the Kerala “backwaters” in search of a houseboat ride in the elaborate river delta system that makes up this part of the country. After a two hour train ride, an hour in a moto-rickshaw into the hills, another hour in a moto-rickshaw back out of the hills, and a thirty minute taxi ride in the wrong direction, we mistakenly arrived in the seaside town of Allappuzha, better known as “Allepy”. We quickly learned that spontaneity and patience are essential to staying sane while traveling in India. Allepey is known as the “Venice of India”, a bit of a stretch, but with the endless canals and waterways you can see where it gets its nickname. It is also the launching point for many of the houseboat tours that cruise through the backwaters of Kerala. We were excited to board one of these converted rice barges and It turned out to be one of the highlights of our time in India.

Lila at the Bow

We headed further north by bus and arrived in the quaint colonial town of Fort Cochin. Set on an island just off the mainland, Fort Cochin has been considered for centuries an important trading port by the Arabs, Chinese, Portuguese, Dutch, and British, especially known for the spices. It’s wide tree lined streets, colorful houses, and artsy cafes made for a comfortable escape for a few days from the chaos that defined the beginning of our trip. Mr Walton, of Walton’s Homestay, gave us a great deal on a comfortable and spacious room and provided us with an abundance of local knowledge, a map, and sent us on our way.

Chinese Fishing Net

We strolled the promenade along the waters edge as groups of fishermen maneuvered the large traditional Chinese fishing nets from the ends of the piers, dipping and rising with new catch each time. Fishmongers in small shops along the shoreline would sell and cook your pick from the freshly caught score. Next we caught a rickshaw over to the other side of the Island to visit “Jew Town“. It sounds odd, but Fort Cochin is host to one of India’s oldest synagogues. Fleeing from the Romans centuries ago, a small number of Jews departed Israel and ended up on the shores of India where they grew in number and thrived as spice merchants. There are not many Jews left in India these days, we were told less than 8000, but the tiny synagogue stands a a testament to their history here and has left an impression on this small community.

Yoga Class in Cochin

We spent the remainder of our time in Fort Cochin taking yoga classes and trying Ayurvedic massage. Lila took cooking lessons with the lively Leelu where she learned the basics of making a good masala and a variety of other coconut based dishes and with the elegant Nimmy, where she learned a more refined style of Indian cuisine. A member of the Syrian Christian community, which was brought to India by St. Paul, her recipes reflect her heritage. Nimmy also teaches a one on one course where her personal attention creates a more intimate environment for learning her wonderful recipes (Highly Recommended!).

Lila Makes a Yummy Thali

India is a feast for the senses. One minute you’re admiring a beautiful temple while women in colorful saris place fragrant flower garlands on an alter only to turn around to see the mangiest three legged dog you can imagine standing on a heap of garbage as a rickshaw driver hacks and spits betel nut juice barely missing your feet.

More to come…

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International Music Festival – Jodhpur Fort, India

Puppet demo in Udaipur, India