Just when we we were beginning to miss San Francisco (kind of), Lila and I arrived in one of Chile’s most interesting cities, Valparaiso, an hour and a half south of Santiago. Built among 45 hills, Valparaiso is a spectacular maze of neighborhoods full of cafes, restaurants, and notable churches. Spending our days strolling up and down through the barrios, we enjoyed the amazing murals and often spectacular graffiti that seems to cover every square inch of the city. ...

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